I recently booked my first whale watching tour – from historic Telegraph Cove, off the east coast of Vancouver Island. As a transplanted East Coaster, I expected ocean spray, misty coastlines and maybe – just maybe – a glimpse of a dorsal fin in the distance.
What I didn’t expect was how rich and layered the experience would be. From the wildlife to the history, every part of this trip felt like stepping into an adventure both wild and timeless.
Here are five things that genuinely surprised me on this unforgettable trip with local experts, Prince of Whales, which operate tours from both Telegraph Cove and downtown Victoria and Vancouver.
1. Telegraph Cove is a hidden time capsule
Before even stepping onto the Zodiac, Telegraph Cove had already won me over. This tiny boardwalk village on Johnstone Strait has layers of history, dating back over 9,000 years to when First Nations bands first migrated here. In more recent history, it became a bustling sawmill and fishing village, then got its name in 1912 when a telegraph company established a coastal station – literally, a telegraph station in a cove. Bam. Telegraph Cove was born.
Until 1956, the community was only accessible by boat, which helped preserve its off-the-grid charm. Today, as a bustling, seasonal tourism destination, it still feels like a quiet, weather-worn village on the edge of the West Coast.
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2. Wildlife beyond whales
Of course I came for orcas and humpbacks – and we saw both – but what I didn’t expect was just how vibrant the ecosystem is. With Prince of Whales, we cruised past sea lions lounging on rocky outcrops, and bald eagles perched high in the trees. While I didn’t see them on my tour, Pacific white-sided dolphins are often spotted, along with black bears meandering along the shoreline.
3. You often hear the whales before you see them
Before a single fin appeared, there was a sudden whoosh – a burst of breath that cut through the stillness of the water. Moments later, all eyes turned toward the horizon just as an adult humpback surfaced in slow, rhythmic motion.
It was a reminder that, out here, you often hear the whales before you see them.
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4. The guides are very knowledgeable
I knew I’d learn a few facts, but I didn’t expect to leave feeling like I’d taken a crash course in marine biology and conservation. Connor, our Prince of Whales guide was passionate, informed and full of engaging stories. He wasn’t just talking at us – he helped connect us to this place, helping us understand the responsibility that comes with visiting it.
“What I love the most is being out there, on the water and getting to spread the word about how amazing the ecosystem is here and the importance of protecting the wildlife,” Connor says.
5. The sense of scale is breathtaking
There’s something deeply humbling about floating in the calm waters of the Broughton Archipelago, surrounded by islands and misty mountains, as a 40-tonne whale silently glides beneath the surface. Out there, you don’t just see nature – you feel it. Everything else falls away: deadlines, emails, phone signals. For a few hours, it was just us, the ocean and the giants who call it home.
Whale watching trips across Vancouver Island hosted by Prince of Whales offer so much more than a sightseeing tour. They’re a reminder of our place in a much larger environment. Among the stillness of the ocean, the timelessness of the cove, and the sheer awe of encountering marine life in the wild, this experience left me with more than just photographs. It gave me perspective, connection and a renewed sense of wonder. Whether you’re a first-timer like me or a seasoned West Coast explorer, Telegraph Cove has a way of surprising you – in the best possible way.
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