Go for your soul: Reverence and magic in Haida Gwaii

On the trail up Tow Hill, we stop at the first lookout to take in the scene: a sun-stroked expanse of sand, narrowing as it disappears into a soft mist. This is Rose Spit, and it’s the perfect place to pause on our first day in Haida Gwaii because, according to legend, this is the birthplace of the Haida people.

“The raven, one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, was lonely. As he wandered down the beach, he heard noises coming from a clamshell. As he looked in the clamshell, he saw many tiny little creatures hiding within. The raven convinced people to emerge from under the shell to enjoy the New World, and they became the first Haida people.”

Magic abounds in Haida Gwaii, often referred to as “the edge of the world.” The landscapes are breathtaking, with old-growth forests, rocky coastlines, pristine lakes and beaches that go on forever. The cultural heritage of the Haida people imbues it all with a sense of spirituality and a connection to the land. And the very remoteness of these islands reveals a wilderness in its purest form. This is a place that demands reverence and respect: a place you go for your soul.

We land in Masset, at the north end of Graham Island, one day in mid-June, having flown from Vancouver via Pacific Coastal Airlines. A shuttle takes us to our car rental, and after a quick lunch, we head straight to Old Masset, jaws dropping as we witness the spectacular totems and art that reside around every corner.

Later, after our hike up Tow Hill – where, from the top, we can see Alaska – we drive the ocean-hugging main road south to Tlell and step into the stunning world of Haida Gwaii Glamping. So much care and thought have gone into creating this unique accommodation, where large canvas tents dot a brightly lit boardwalk above a short, forested path to the ocean.

READ MORE: Haida Gwaii inspires big walks, and its East Beach Trail will put you to the test

Here, you sleep under mosquito nets in cosy queen beds and spacious tents that have adjoining shower and toilet rooms on one side and balconies on the other. From our balcony we can see the ocean and we sit peacefully here for a period, listening to eagles calling overhead. Later, we stroll along the beach, absorbing the utter tranquility and calm of a wild and deserted stretch of rocks and sand.

A complimentary continental breakfast is served communally in a geodesic “social dome,” which has a long table, couches and lounging areas, toys for the kids, and all the plates, cutlery and cooking materials you need for either your breakfast here or a meal down at the “deck” – a beautifully designated eating and cooking area equipped with barbecues and oversized seafood cooking pots.

During our stay, we have the honour of dining on the deck with Haida Gwaii-born Alana Husby, who, along with her sister, Nicole, created this luxury accommodation. Alana is a wonderful host and a spectacular storyteller – with some riveting tales to share.

Just up the road from Haida Gwaii Glamping sits Haida House at Tllaal, where we dine on our first night. The room is awash in beautiful Haida art, and the menu offers a selection of regional tide- and farm-to-table cuisine. I absolutely swoon over what must be the best tuna I’ve ever tasted.

Haida House – which also offers accommodation in rooms above the restaurant and in 12 two-bedroom, Haida-inspired oceanside cabins – sits alongside the Tlell River, and across the water is the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail that we hope to hike tomorrow.

The five-kilometre trail leads to the wreck of the vessel Pezuta (misspelled these days as Pesuta), which ran aground in 1928. Despite being on the beach for nearly 100 years, the bow is still there, jutting out from the sand.

That day, however, we decide there are too many other must-sees nearby to hike the three-hour trail, so we settle for a much shorter beach walk that takes us to the mouth of the Tlell River, where we can see the shipwreck looming just across the way.

And then we set out to explore, driving first to nearby Crystal Cabin – a little gem store with big works of art – where we bask in the collection of vibrant Haida paintings, and drool over the jewellery before purchasing a pair of beautifully carved silver rings.

After admiring the totems in Skidegate and wandering around Daajing Giids, we settle in for a tour of the The Haida Heritage Centre at Kay ‘Llnagaay. Driving the main road south from Tlell, you can’t miss this stunning 50,000-square-foot structure, designed in traditional long houses to resemble the oceanside Haida village that once stood here.

The centre houses a museum, performance area, carving shed and canoe house, a teaching centre, classrooms, gift shop and bistro. According to the mission statement, the Haida Heritage Centre celebrates the living culture of the Haida: “Through our language, art and stories we share our relationship with the land and sea which shapes, nourishes and sustains us…. Kay ‘Llnagaay is a place for the Haida voice to be heard. This is our gift to the world.”

Touring this centre, it really hits home that the Haida people have undergone a cultural genocide in the last century and are now reclaiming their glorious culture. You can’t experience the present of Haida Gwaii without looking at its past, so making a visit to this centre should be an essential part of any travel here.

Our day continues with a hike on an easy trail that winds through a sun-dappled forest around the perimeter of Spirit Lakes. A sign at the trailhead – which, of course, features a beautiful carved archway – warns of bears, which probably makes us hike a little faster than normal. We also stop at the famous Balance Rock – a massive boulder that appears to be balancing precariously on the beach.

The rain is coming in sideways the next morning as we leave Haida Gwaii Glamping (flush with items from the gift shop) and head to an early morning ferry from Skidegate to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island.

READ MORE: After 150 years, sea otters return to Haida Gwaii

Today we’ll be on the water with Moresby Explorers, and we’re met by our guides, who load us into a van for an informative, hour-long backroads drive to the launch site. Moresby Explorers offers numerous tours and private boat charters, but we’re here for a daytrip that will circumnavigate Louise Island and visit the ancient Haida village of .

Once on the Zodiac, wearing raingear and bright orange flotation suits, we see a Minke whale before even leaving the bay. During the excursion, we also stop to watch sealions braying on a rock, spot a bear on the shoreline and witness the beauty of this breathtaking wilderness. But it’s the stop at Skedans that touches our souls.

Usually, the tour’s lunch takes place on the beach, but with the driving rain, the Skendans’ “watchmen” – Haida people who live at significant sites over the summer and share their knowledge – invite us into the welcome warmth of their home.

We enjoy a delicious meal provided by our tour guides and an enlightening conversation with our watchmen hosts. After lunch, we tour the ancient village site, where buildings once stood and ancient poles are still visible. This is a day we’ll never forget.

Back at our car, we drive to the tip of Sandspit and find our cosy accommodation for the next two nights – a brand-new fairway cabin, located on the edge of The Willows Golf Course at Hekate’s Retreat. The rain has stopped and from the deck of our fully self-contained cabin, we can see the ocean across the fairway, and it feels as though we truly are at the edge of the world.

In addition to the cabins, Hekate’s Retreat rents out the Homestead House (accommodating eight people), the Beach House (for six) and RVs, as well as sites for camping. The links-style golf course, with 18 tee boxes on nine greens, is a visual highlight of this wild and remote setting, and the newly renovated Clubhouse Restaurant offers thoughtfully curated, upscale meals. The chef puts his own creative touch on the food – and it works. The two meals we enjoy here are divine.

Hekate’s Retreat is located just minutes from the K’il Kun Xidgwangs Daanaay airport, and we spend several hours on our last day walking a trail that leads from Hekate’s through a wildflower-strewn field, winding along a windswept beach all the way around the airport.

Like our other activities on Haida Gwaii it fosters a deep quiet within us, a sense of stillness and oneness with the land. It’s a huge exhale. It’s more moments of magic in a place that touches your soul.

This feature appeared in the winter issue of Boulevard Vancouver.

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